Kyoto

Arrived at the Kyoto Station at 10:30pm on the 28th. What a massive and gorgeous station it was! It was as if we where let out in the middle of Phipps Plaza! For over 1000 years, Kyoto was the capital of Japan while Tokyo was only a small fisherman's village. It is immediately evident that wealth and pride still exists in this city, which welcomes over 500,000 visitors a year. A planned city, it mimics those designed during The Han Dynasty of China. A shining example of Feng Shui in planning the city, it is fittingly surrounded by mountains on all sides but the southern region.

We were told that Heikanbo Ryokan (traditional Japanese hotel much like our B&Bs at home) was a short walk from the station. True, it is, unless you get lost like we did. But we have learned to ask for directions before we wander too far off the path. We stopped two young guys as they were crossing the street. They spoke very little English but seemed to make out the hand written note our hospitality BFF gave us in Yokohama. They called the phone number and motioned for us to follow. As we walked down the street, it became obvious that they had thrown back at least a few before we found them. They talked between themselves, tried to engage us in conversation and then would break out in laughter. I started to get suspicious.

We took a right turn down a dark narrow alley. Of course! Isn't that where all the foreigners get attacked by drunk locals just looking for a victim?! I fell back with the boys and Chris took my position next to them. They just kept laughing. Holy crap. Are we really going to just walk right into this ambush? Then out of nowhere...really... the inn keeper peeks her head out of a dark building, "Ahh! Arigato!" Basically saying, "There are my Americans showing up late for their reservation! Thanks for bringing them to me!" The two "gentlemen" (how I now refer to them) had gone out of there way to deliver us to our hotel.

Once inside, we were instructed to remove our shoes and use the house slippers they provided. Our room was appointed with a simple coffee table, seat cushions, mattresses (similar to futon mats), linens, a tiny bathroom, tiny shower and a tv with 4 Japanese stations. Very comfortable clean and welcoming.

In the morning we had 2 temples, 1 martial arts bodo and 1 tea ceremony on the agenda.
Ambitious, considering our sense of direction and the slight case of ADD that I believe we all suffer from when it comes to food and shopping. 1 pair of shoes, 3 pairs of gloves, 2 scarves, a bagful of snacks and a camera later, we finally got underway.

We visited Higashi Hongonji Buddhist Temple, one of the 1,600 in the city. As per tradition, we removed our shoes and walked up the stairs of the temple. At the top of the stairs, the main door was open to all visitors. The interior was extremely ornate and contrasted dramatically with the simplicity of the exterior. Inside seemed very expansive because it is void of any furniture. Those who come to worship sit on the floor. Jeremy and I commented that it was interesting that although we are not of their religion, there is something very moving about seeing people in prayer and being respectful of their faith.

We took a subway to the Kyoto City Budo Centre, built in 1899, it houses Japan's oldest martial arts training center. Unfortunately, our lack of preparation again, got us there too early for the exhibition. In asking directions to the tea ceremony, we enjoyed the company of Yurika, who just finished her judo lesson and offered to drive us to the tea ceremony. Again, the kindness of strangers took us by surprise. She dropped us at a location which she thought was close to our destination. As we walked down the street we heard her calling to us and directing us another way. I think she returned to us 3 different times. Each time outwardly embarrassed that she was not completing her task. She drove us another 3 or 4 blocks and decided that it was the best she could do. With no tea ceremony in sight, she apologetically but in perfect english said, "I hope I was helpful to you today. " We were more than thankful to just have gotten a ride. I wish she stayed the 2 more minutes it took us to find our destination just around the corner.

The tea ceremony was definitely for me. I think the boys enjoyed learning about the tradition and it probably helped them to know that it originated with the samurai. No women permitted. It is a very tedious experience. Every single motion has meaning of respect for life, others, nature and of course...the tea. Thankfully, the ceremony came with a snack which the boys enjoyed fully!

So, headed back home we decided by unanimous decision to have dinner at McDonald's : ) Not really out of home sickness and not because we dislike the Japanese cuisine but mainly to give our palates a break with something familiar... an old friend.

To Kobe!